I write you this as I sit in an internet café a few blocks
from the flat which Ian, Nick, and I (the male portion of the Fulbright English
Teachers) currently reside. To say that writing this is a struggle would be an understatement. Not because I have
experienced so much over this past week that it is difficult for me to
determine where to even begin (although on any other day this would be the
case), but rather because I am in a Mo Mo coma. These divine dumplings are a
Nepali staple, but when Nick and I were challenged to eat the family size portion
of fifty in one sitting, we naively took on the challenge for this lunch. So please forgive me, the challenge is over,
the Mo Mo are in our bellies and are paid for by our friend, but with the way
my stomach is feeling I am not sure I would call us ‘winners’.
After getting the run down with various offices of the US
embassy and other NGOs this past week on how to stay healthy, what to do and
what not to do to stay safe, along with a plethora of other information including
how to get married or divorced here, we also were invited to the Embassy’s 4th
of July event at the US commissary (which is run by a Canadian…). This event was held on Saturday July 7th
and was only for US citizens and their friends. It felt like I was in America.
It was the first time that our group, outside of the Embassy, had been surrounded
by native English speakers. As we were offered BBQ and Budweiser, it was
easy to forget that we were in Nepal. I
think an event like this, which I associate more with family and friends rather
than patriotism, would have been much more difficult to attend had I been away
from all of you longer, but I am still in the tourist or honeymoon stage so the
event was more bearable.
Living only with other Americans, and spending the majority
of my time with other Americans has quelled, or at least subdued the major
culture shock so far. We are at the
Fulbright Commission 5 days a week, 9 to 5 studying Nepali and receiving
teacher training. But we are easing in, with every new Nepali lesson we acquire
more vocab and confidence. A similar thing happened to me in Botswana when for
the first 10 days we were staying in a hotel and receiving a crash course in
the language; it wasn’t until I received my piece of paper which had my host
families information that my heart started to pound and I really began to feel
like I was getting out of my comfort zone. That experience would repeat itself
in various manners throughout the rest of my stay in Botswana, but it only
happened once I began to truly immerse myself in the culture. I expect that to be the same for Nepal; it is
easy to head back to our flat after a day of practicing Nepali and check out
of Nepal for a while as I respond to emails, make my own food, or read a book,
but living with a host family is going to provided me with an incredible
opportunity to enhance my language skills and help immerse myself into the
culture. I am totally excited for it.
But until then, I am enjoying the tourist life. Checking out the sites and embracing my little knowledge of the area has been exhilarating.
I have been exploring the different shops and restaurants, finding out the
‘true’ prices of goods and not just the tourist prices. I am becoming more and
more acclimated with the city and can walk myself to most of the necessary
places without a map. Finding shortcuts through alleyways is the next step
though. It is disorienting (to say the least) to navigate through the tightly
weaving alleyway systems which make up a good deal of the city, which provide
no visual reference points, due to the height of the buildings, all while
dodging motorcycles, little children, and stray dogs. Soon though, soon.
After the American Club, we met up with a Nepali who went to
school with Julie (a fellow ETA). He is back this summer in Nepal through the
Anne Frank Project. When he went to college in the States it was not only his
first time hearing about Anne Frank, but also the Holocaust. Astonished to find this out only when he left
the country, he began to come up with a way to teach Nepali about the
atrocities which took place in Europe.
This is the second summer he going to Nepali schools to teach about the Holocaust through
the story of Anne Frank. He is also in the process of petitioning the
government to cover it in the world history textbooks.
He took us out to the countryside of the valley. After exiting
the ring road which surrounds the majority of the city, rice patties become
more and more prevalent, until they surround you on every side, with houses
dotting the road or in far off fields. After trekking down a muddy path which wound through the paddies, we reached a trout farm where, with other
Nepali, we caught our fish with nets and enjoyed the trout fried in a bamboo bungalow
perched on top of hill overlooking the paddies as the monsoon season rain
pounded down. After days of weaving through traffic, inhaling lots of dust, and
coping with the ever present sounds of honking, this was a much needed
breather.
Tomorrow we head to Gorkha, outside of the valley to receive
some in classroom experience and see one of our possible placements.
Our welcome to the American Club
Wouldn't be a real 4th without the King
Sorcha, Ayumi, and Rachel
Fishing
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