Tuesday, September 15, 2009


Sorry that I haven’t kept you updated recently, but I've been really busy with classes and travel. Last week, we went on a 4 day study trip and I have been pretty swamped with Chinese homework since then. Classes have been going really well though. Every morning starting at 8:30, we have 3 hours of Chinese language class.  Then, depending on what day it is, we either have Traditional Chinese Medicine after lunch or our Core Course, which is based around a variety of Chinese issues which includes speakers and discussions. The other class we have after lunch is our Independent Study meetings. A requirement of being in the program is conducting an Independent Research Study on a topic of my choice. These are normally done through internships. Also, for the first two weeks here, we had Taiji every afternoon; now in its place, we are now beginning calligraphy.

            Our recent study trip was really awesome. We first headed west to Datong, which is in the Shanxi province.   Before we were even told that the area was one of the leading coal producers in the world, we knew.  It was in the air, harder to breath than in New York City’s nearly indoor bus terminal.  Trucks were everywhere carrying huge chunks of it.  We were told stories of wealthy coal mine owners who go to Beijing and buy entire apartment complexes, in cash.  The mines bring in so much wealth, but there has been much controversy with them in turn. Besides the extreme environmental health hazards it causes, there are constant labor safety issues. Right after we left, three different mines collapsed killing close to 100, and this is not a rare occurrence.  There have also been child slave labor scandals.  As we drive by makeshift huts that the miners sleep in and see BMWs driving by and luxury apartments springing up everywhere, it is hard not to notice the extreme disparity of wealth in this country. 

            We didn’t just visit the area to experience some of the worst pollution in the world; we went there to check out the Yungang Caves.  In this one hill there are over 250 caves with Buddha statues carved into them.  There is over 51,000 thousand carving!  They were some that were over 40 meters tall and gorgeous. Unfortunately, many had gotten caked in soot from coal trucks and factories. Until about 10 years ago when the government made an alternative route, there were about 16,000 coal trucks passing right in front of these epic sculptures.

            This trip was primarily based around religion. We stayed at Mount Wutai for three days. It is one of China’s most ancient Buddhist sites.  The origins of the area go back to around 200 BC.  To get there you have to go over some ridiculous mountain passes (it was a route of pilgrimage for many Buddhist), now with paved roads it has become more and more tourist friendly. 

            The history there is awesome.  Most of the temples are Lama based (Tibetan) and have been around for centuries.  In this area there have been over 200 temples, but now only about 50 exist.  A lot of it is due to religious persecution and purges primarily in the Tang Dynasty (618-907). Surprisingly, little harm was done to this area during the Cultural Revolution. 

            After careening up and around the biggest mountain in northern China, navigating through pea soup fog, rock slides, farm animals and hundreds of coal trucks, we finally dipped down into the temple area. Gradually as you start to venture closer and closer to what appears to be one huge monastery with a road going through it, the distinct smell of incense starts to fill your nostrils, and even though you have just been on a Mr. Toad's Wild Bus Ride for the past five hours, you feel a calming and tranquil sensation coming over you and everything just seems to be all right.  There was no yearning feeling anymore to escape from our near metal coffin with wheels, we had arrived.

            The first monastery we visited was packed!! There were hundreds of people going in and out and inside there was a stage on which an opera was being performed. Complete opposite of tranquil.  People were bustling every which way and it was really hard to appreciate anything.  It was entirely different than what I expected. We hung out there for a few minutes, then all of us, overwhelmed with its busyness continued on to our next destination.

            After that, I was starting to feel real bummed about this “once sacred place”.  Yes, the temples there were gorgeous, but it was impossible to truly appreciate it and I know that wasn’t the intention of the place when it was first constructed.

            To get to the next monastery we had to drive up a ways into the hills and to my surprise when were arrived, there was only one other car there.  I knew that this place was going to be more like what I expected.  The monastery we visited was originally three separate monasteries that over time combined to create one.  It had seven different levels with the final one at the peak of the mountain.

            Our teacher was able to arrange for us to eat lunch with the monks.  Prior to entering the dining hall, our teachers told us  that we must eat everything that we ask for.  As we sat in silence a few monks brought pots of soup and noodles and bread around giving hefty portions to all.  I have no doubt in my mind that the vegetable soup and bread I had for that meal has been the best meal I have had so far in China, hands down.

            We were then fortunate enough to have a sit-down question and answer with a monk, who told us some of the history of the temple, as well as what it is like to be a monk.  They wake up every morning at 4:30 and have class, then have lunch at 11:30 and a nap. The rest of the day they spend doing chores or studying and they go to sleep by 9. When he was asked about why he became of monk his answer was “1: family influence, 2:destiny”. He even gave us a tour of the entire monastery.  It was gorgeous.

            I learned so much from going to Wutai Mount. The lifestyles of the monks are completely foreign to me. It was a very interesting contrast from when I visited the Vatican last summer. 

            On this trip, we also visited the Yingxian Wooden Pagoda which is about 70 meters high, 1,000 years old and made with 0 (zero) nails.  I guess it is the Chinese version of the Leaning Tower of Pisa.  We also visited the Hanging Temple, which is basically a temple built into a cliff wall over 1,400 years old.  Inside there were all these different gods from so many different religions even some characters from a novel. When I asked about the multitude of people to pray to they response was “Whatever works”. 

            Overall, life in China is pretty awesome.  This took  awhile to get out because I have been really held up with study trips and class work. Chinese is pretty tough but I am enjoying it. I hope that everything is going awesome!

1 comment:

  1. Kiiiinda love the shirt Acadia's wearing in front of the statue...Miss you guys!

    ReplyDelete